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CONDENSATION
What is condensation?
All air contains some water
in the form of vapour which, unlike the
steam from a kettle, cannot be seen or
felt. When damp air comes into contact
with a cold surface, at least some of
the water vapour will condense into water,
resulting in dampness. The amount of water
vapour air can hold depends on its temperature.
Warm air indoors can hold more than cold
air and so the risk of significant condensation
is increased.
Modern homes are significant
producers of water vapour. An average
family of four through activities like
washing, cooking and drying clothes can
produce as much as 4 or 5 gallons every
24 hours. In recent years, more regular
bathing and showers in particular has
added to the amount of water vapour in
our homes. If paraffin is used for heating,
then every gallon burned will produce
about the same amount of water vapour.
Increasing condensation
Central heating and improved
insulation have helped to raise the internal
temperature of our homes and have therefore
increased the amount of water vapour that
the air can hold. However there is obviously
a limit to the amount of water vapour
in the air and unless it escapes by ventilation
or other means, it will condense. Heated
air will absorb most of the moisture but
there comes a saturation point. What does
not get absorbed comes into contact with
the cool surface, a window pane or an
outside wall, and condensates back into
water.
Traditional sources of natural
ventilation have been steadily reduced
or removed. Modern windows are virtually
airtight and chimneys are either blocked
off or non existent. The only unaided
escape route is through porous brick or
plaster walls and the use of vinyl wall
coverings has helped to circumvent this.
It is most unlikely that people with open
coal fires, which create natural ventilation
throughout the home, will experience problems
with condensation.
Older houses will tend to have colder
internal wall surfaces due to there being
less wall insulation than has been required
since 1982, and will therefore be particularly
prone to condensation. Flat roofed bungalows
and ground floor flats in particular can
suffer badly because there is no roof
void into which condensation can escape.
We now heat our homes to
levels previously unthought of and, since
energy costs soared, do our best to seal
them up to prevent precious heat loss,
encouraged by the Governments “
Save It “ campaign. This well meaning
and expensive programme has promoted draught
proofing, yet inadequate ventilation is
one of the main reasons for condensation
problems.
We constantly strive to
seal ourselves into warm surroundings
and to keep down fuel costs when we are
inadvertently increasing the level of
condensation. Double glazing in windows
maintains the temperature of the inner
window pane and makes it less likely that
condensation will form.
However, the moisture remains
in the air until it meets another cold
surface or is moved outside the house
by ventilation. Before double glazing,
the draughts from windows acted as adequate
ventilation, thus the effects of condensation
were not always noticeable. When the new
draught proof sealed units or secondary
panes did their job and successfully sealed
off the draughts, the condensation became
more evident.
Controlling condensation
means striking a balance between the way
you heat, insulate and ventilate your
home. Replacement windows will improve
the insulation but will usually also reduce
the amount of ventilation. This can be
enough to aggravate an existing condensation
problem or create one where there was
none before.
Unfortunately, there is
not and easy answer to the problem.
Condensation Cures
There are three basic ways
in which the problem can be tackled.
1. REDUCE MOISTURE EMISSION
AT SOURCE.
Unvented tumble dryers,
paraffin or gas heaters which discharge
combustion gases into the room produce
large amounts of water vapour. Vent tumble
dryers through an outside wall and avoid
the use of these type of heaters if possible.
Laundry and clothes drying should be carried
out elsewhere. An external utility room
perhaps. Kitchen and bathroom doors should
be kept closed during cooking and bathing
to minimise the migration of water vapour
to other rooms.
2. REMOVE EXCESS MOISTURE
FROM THE AIR.
The simplest method is by
ventilation, either by regularly opening
windows and vents on fine, dry days or
by fitting extractor fans in the kitchen
and bathroom. An extractor fan should
be fitted as close to the vapour source
as possible i. e over the cooker, and
used immediately after the steam has been
produced. Open fires also provide a good
source of ventilation. Unfortunately,
ventilation always results in some heat
loss and occasionally, the external air
contains as much water vapour as that
on the inside. An alternative approach
would be to install either an electric
dehumidifier or heat exchange unit.
Heat exchange units are
normally attached to an outside wall and
take the warm, moist air from the atmosphere
and replace it with what is normally,
drier air from out of doors, at the same
time transferring the heat from the moist
air leaving the property to the cooler
air that is entering the property.
Dehumidifiers are usually
self contained and simply plug into the
mains. They work along the same lines
as a refrigerator and extract the excessive
moisture from the atmosphere.
Additional heating of the
air may help, as the warmed air will take
longer to cool at any cold surface, and
give the existing ventilation more time
to operate. But in extreme condensation
cases heating can only be effective if
it is used for long enough to raise the
temperature of the cold surfaces, which
seldom happens when heating is used intermittently.
Double glazing will result
in warmer window surfaces and will combat
condensation caused by ineffective insulation
of properties of single glazing, but,
in the event of inadequate ventilation,
any anti-condensation benefits may be
cancelled out by reducing the level of
ventilation that previously occurred through
the old, draughty windows.
CAUSES OF CONDENSATION
| PEOPLE |
Adults sleeping |
= 1.5 pints |
| GAS/PARAFFIN HEATERS |
1 Gallon |
= 9 pints |
| BATH/SHOWER |
|
= 2 pints |
| COOKING |
Family of four
|
= 5.5 pints |
| WASHING |
Machine load |
= 4 pints |
| TUMBLE DRYER |
Machine load |
= 9 pints |
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